Exploring the Finger Lakes: Honeoye, CANANDAIGUA, AND Keuka Lakes
After day one of exploring the Finger Lakes, we continued to a few more. On this particular day, I was excited because we would visit a new town and venture into wine country. Here are the lakes from day two of our adventure:
HONEOYE LAKE
Honeoye Lake is the shallowest of the Finger Lakes, at about 30 feet at its deepest point, and covers 1772 acres. Its designated beach area is located in Sandy Bottom Park, where swimming is allowed when a lifeguard is on duty. The park is surrounded by 45 acres, with nature trails and natural wetlands. Fun tip: You can hike around the lake in one day, but pets are not allowed on the trail to protect the abundant wildlife. Like Conesus Lake, Honeoye Lake is known to freeze during colder winters, making it a fun spot for winter adventure seekers—parkkeepers also groom trails for winter snowmobilers to enjoy.
A Short Drive Away
Just a short drive from Honeoye Lake is the small village of Honeoye Falls in Mendon, NY, named after the waterfall on Honeoye Creek. Founded in 1791 by miller Zebulon Norton, this village makes for a cute day trip. Aside from the beautiful views of the old mill and falls, I enjoyed visiting Bleak House Books, an independent, family-owned bookstore.
It was founded in Hong Kong in 2017 and was only one of a handful of bookshops focused on English-language literature in Hong Kong. Though the bookstore was experiencing success, the political instability and civil strife motivated owners Jenny and Albert to close the shop and leave Hong Kong. Their story is amazing, and I encourage you to read it here. I love the support they received from customers in Hong Kong and overseas and the success they continue to experience here in the States. When visiting the shop, I saw firsthand how much visitors to Honeoye Falls and the local community enjoy the space and conversation with the owners. It has an incredible collection of books and is a beautiful, creative, and artsy space to enjoy the shopping experience. By far, one of my favorite bookshops in the area.
We stopped in Sweet and Cute Sweets for a latte and lemonade before walking around town to take photos of the falls. The adjacent Mendon town hall, a brick Romanesque Revival style building, was the buckwheat flour mill, and the cute red sawmill overlooking the falls is now a private residence built on the foundation of the original sawmill.
Another fun way to spend time in Honeoye Falls is at OKay Beer Company. This brewery is located inside a 16-lane bowling alley and offers 8 house-made beers, craft cocktails, and local wine. it also has some of the most kickass nachos I have tasted anywhere. I enjoyed the vibe of this place. Formerly known as The Sportacade, later as Brongo Bowl, this iconic bowling alley has experienced several reiterations and renovations since it first opened in the summer of 1948. It still holds many classic bowling details of the past and hosts leagues and community bowling team competitions and gatherings today.
CANANDAIGUA LAKE
Canandaigua Lake is the fourth largest Finger Lake. The lake is 276 feet deep, with about 35.9 miles of shoreline. There are two beaches for swimming, picnicking, and spending an afternoon. Kershaw Park is on Shore Road at the north end of the lake. It has a lifeguard-protected beach area with an entry fee, a picnic area, and trails. And there’s Deep Run Park, 3 miles south on East Lake Road, with a smaller beach, lifeguard, and picnic area. Enjoy the sunset views over the lake while walking along the promenade and the historic city pier.
The lake is also a fun visit because of the city of Canandaigua, located at the lake’s northern end. Canandaigua was one of my very first Finger Lakes visits, and I did so much. From visits to Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion State Historic Park to learning about the Seneca Nation at the Ganondagan State Historic Site in nearby Victor, NY, to taking cooking classes at New York Kitchen to exploring all the dining options along Main St. Some of my favorite spots are Simply Crepes for brunch, Il Posto Bistro for delicious Italian food and wine, and Bon Ami Bistro for a wonderful French bistro experience. I am also a huge fan of the Rose Tarven at the upscale Lake House in Canandaigua, a relaxing hotel stay experience.
A Short Drive Away
The village of Naples is a short 20-minute drive south. It is known as the grape pie capital of the world. I read that they sell an average of 70,000 grape pies annually! They also host the Naples Grape Festival every September, which is a good time to visit and try it! Some of my favorite spots in Naples are Roots Cafe for lunch or dinner Old School Cafe for breakfast, Hollerhorn Distilling for drinks and brunch, Plenty Bakery for some freshly baked treats (get there early on the limited days they are open!), and the dining experience on the porch of the Naples Hotel’s restaurant for people-watching- the hotel has a haunted history too, which makes for a fun adventure!
We also enjoy riding Bristol Mountain‘s ski lift in the fall when the leaves change colors, drinking wine, and listening to live music concerts at Inspire Moore Winery.
Don’t miss visiting the Naples Library, named by the Rochester Regional Library Council Library of The Year 2024. Stop by Joseph’s Wayside Market for seasonal produce and locally sourced goods.
KEUKA LAKE
Regarding Keuka Lake, I am a bit biased as it is my “home lake”, where I spend most of my time, and consider it my favorite. That said, it does have some of the most impressive history.
Keuka Lake is the most unique of the Finger Lakes because of its Y-shape, often called Crooked Lake. On average, it is 19.6 miles long and 3/4 of a mile wide and has a surface area of approximately 18 square miles. The lake is surrounded by 10 towns and two villages, Hammondsport and Pen Yann.
Keuka Lake was once connected to Seneca Lake through the Crooked Lake Canal, which further connected to the Erie Canal. The Crooked Lake Canal was later replaced by the Bath & Hammondsport Railroad in 1872, connecting to the Erie Railroad. All this transportation evolution helped develop the local vineyards and winery industry, making for a thriving and bustling wine region. As such, it earned the title Cradle of the Wine Industry in New York. It is also in this area where the first water-craft airplanes were developed and tested by aviation pioneer Glenn Curtiss. Today, visitors can learn more about the history of Glen Curtiss at the Glen Curtiss Museum in Hammondsport, NY.
Depot Park in Hammonsport is a popular beach spot and boat and kayak launching area, as is Keuka State Park, which requires an entry fee during high season, and Red Jacket Park in Penn Yan.
It’s crazy to imagine it now, but this lake was also once heavily populated by steamboats, which were used as the main transportation between Penn Yan and Hammondsport. It was also here where Charles Fournier and Konstantin Frank experimented with vines and transformed the grape and wine industry. No more steamboats are dominating the lakes, and much of the farming industry scaled down after a series of natural and political events. However, what remains is a more lush, naturally landscaped filled with wildlife, trails, waterfalls, and smaller, family-owned wineries and businesses.
A Short Drive
Hammondsport, NY, is located on the south end of the lake. It is a quaint village with Victorian and Colonial-style houses and buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Charles Champlin’s Pleasant Valley Wine Company was the first vineyard established here. The village can feel seasonal to some, but it is a cute visit with places like Crooked Lake Ice Cream, the Village Tavern, and Maloney’s Pub serving as favorite hangouts for locals (and visitors) year-round. Don’t miss out on antique shopping at Patina and Opera House Antiques and enjoying some early morning baked goods from Vern’s Bakery.
I recommend hiking the Mitchellsville Gorge Trail near Hammonsport. This beautiful trail follows a portion of the Finger Lakes Trail (which covers 1,000 miles in total!). Mitchellsville Gorge Trail is an easy hike with a few moderate hills. It takes you through a vineyard, flower fields, and forest and surrounds you with the sounds of the nearby creek and local wildlife. Follow the ridgeline along Mitchellsville Creek for views of waterfalls. The hike is 2.5 miles (one way), and crosses marked private land, so be mindful. There are a lot of cool aspects about this trail, but for me, the coolest is walking over the former Bath & Hammondsport Railroad (remember the one I mentioned above that replaced the Crooked Lake Canal in 1872). It’s walking over a piece of local history!
It is cool in the summer and colorful in the fall. It can get buggy, so bring spray and plenty of water to drink! Also, if you are considering bringing littles, be aware that the trail takes you close to the edge of the gorge in some spots. If picnicking, be ready to carry out whatever you carry in. We enter this trail from the parking lot in front of the vineyard near the intersection of NYS Route 54 and County Route 88.
There are some very cute B&B options in Hammonsport, but I also love the Park Inn, which is my go-to for staycations in the area.
Penn Yan, located on the northern end of Keuka Lake, is another popular spot not just for its many cute shops and eateries but also for its access to the Keuka Outlet Trail, which spans about 7 miles and connects to Seneca Lake (exploring the length of this trail is a fun day-long adventure) and offers plenty of views along the way of old mills and waterfalls. It is possible to cover the entirety of the trail and go back on a bike (there are some slight hills). The beginning of the trail in Penn Yan is in the parking lot behind Birkett Mills.
I can also often be found at Amity Coffee, picking up freshly baked bread at Blue Heron Bakery, enjoying a cocktail at 18th Amendment, or having a nice Italian meal at Union Block.
I also love exploring Oakhill Bulk Foods, picking up BBQ goodies at Morgan’s Grocery, and finding other fun gifts and items at the Windmill.
When it comes to wineries, the list is almost endless, and trying to list them all would force me to leave some out. So, if you love wine, plan to explore for several days. For history buffs, start at Dr. Konstantin Frank and reserve a seat at the 1886 Wine Experience for a wine and food pairing treat. I am also a huge fan of McGregor Wines for their reds, Weiss Vineyards for their Rieslings, Domaine LeSeurre for a taste of France meets the Finger Lakes, Keuka Springs for the views, and Point of The Bluff for summer concerts and farmers market with wine. The Keuka Lake views from Living Roots Wine will take your breath away, plus the crew there is so nice (also, check out their Rochester location!), and Heron Hill, with its iconic wine barrel-shaped tasting room.
But this is not a complete list and excludes many other greats you must try. I am also not even in touch with the breweries and distilleries, of which there are many! There is a reason why this is such an iconic lake for wine lovers and also why it is among the most beloved of all the Finger Lakes. Yes, again, I know I am showing my biases here…but regardless of your favorites, Keuka Lake is bound to make the list!