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October 11, 2013

Getting to Know Bordeaux, France

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I’ve shared so much already about my visit to Bordeaux and some of the neighboring wine regions. I even shared the beauty of Bordeaux at night, a magical moment during my travels there.

I spent a lot of time in Bordeaux walking around by myself, an intimidating notion at first which is exactly why, when given the option by my hosts, I chose to walk around on my own as often as possible. Turns out that it’s not very difficult to navigate this city of a little over 200,000 people. It very much felt and functioned like a central city would, but it was also friendlier, cleaner, and more laid back than a lot of major cities in Europe, certainly more so than Paris. There is no guarantee that people will easily speak English the further you walk away from the tourist center…and I have to say, despite how bad my French is, that I completely respect that. Public transportation is easy and affordable and extremely reliable, though the city itself is very bike and pedestrian friendly. As a matter of fact, I had a few passes for the tram system and ended up walking around, even in the rain, most of the time.

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And it is a pretty city, its architecture and art scene being some of my favorite features. Talk to those from the area however, and they will tell you how just 10 years ago the scene was in fact quite different. The city is also known as La Belle Endormie (Sleeping Beauty) because of the pollution that afflicted it some time ago. What are now beautiful, bright clay limestone buildings were once dark, black structures covered in smog residue from the cars and ships that docked in its port. What is now an open pedestrian way was once a wall that blocked out the city from the water views, “cutting off from the rest of the world”, some say.

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To walk along the beautiful streets of this UNESCO World Heritage listed destination for its “outstanding urban and architectural ensemble” one couldn’t even have imagined the darker, gloomier scenes of yesteryear.

Of course, there is the wine. The incredibly, delicious wine. But most importantly, there are the people and the views and that air of sophistication and comfort found only in smaller European cities. It’s funny to think about how short my time there was when remembering how fulfilling my experiences were. Here are some of the most memorable.

Where I Stayed

The Hotel Experience

I had the pleasure of staying on the quite rue de Lurbe in the wonderful boutique Hotel LaCourCarrée. This is where old world meets new, as guests enjoy modern amenities and accommodations, including Wi fi and Continental breakfasts, while in a newly restored, centuries old building.  I loved my room. It was large, even more so for European standards, and incredibly comfortable. What I most enjoyed was how centrally located it was allowing me to move around freely day and night with no need to take taxis. It feels incredibly intimate, so I am not sure how well families with little ones would feel there but couples, friends, and business travelers would feel right at home for sure.

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The Château Experience

If you are looking for something far more extravagant and truly unique, then look no further than Château Pape Clément, a prestigious estate of Bernard Magrez wine and one of the oldest in Pessac, a short distance from Bordeaux’s city center. Formerly the estate of archbishop Bertrand de Goth, a tour through the grounds and wine cellars will highlight how his image is still very much part of the decor. Château Pape Clément is known, first and foremost, for its wines, a Grand Cru Classé of Graves. The estate also has a small shop a short distance away where they offer tastings and sell their wine selections.Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel

Secondly, the estate hosts weddings, events, and tours, but also guests in its luxurious bed and breakfast venue (the château itself) and this experience is one unlike any other I have ever had in my life. The whole dream-like moment started the moment they estate had their driver pick me up at the train station in their Rolls Royce. Of course, I had to take pictures, because, Rolls Royce!

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The rooms are like walking into a museum, with delicate details displayed throughout. It was screaming “romance”, though sadly I was there alone, but still enjoyed every second of my stay very much. Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel

Between the tour, the wine tasting, the luxurious meals, the service, and the overall experience of staying in a French luxury château, I felt like a princess…and was treated very much like one. Also, the sunrise from the balcony off the dining room, overlooking the vineyard are breathtaking and worthy of an early wake up just to witness.Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel Bordeaux_GirlGoneTravel

Where I Ate

I’m going to be honest here. I ate a lot while on this trip. A lot. But, I also balanced it out with wine…so it’s all good.

Here are a couple of the most memorable spots, mostly because of the food and the company.

Le Plat a Oreilles (8 Rue des Faussets, Bordeaux) gives the impression at first of being a small intimate bistro specializing in classic French cuisine. But look deeper and you will find a space ready to cater to larger groups in an environment with truly French style. I enjoyed the company of my host Brigitte Bloch of Aquitaine Tourist Board, while tasting my very first meal of the trip. It was everything one loves about French food: creamy, rich, filling, and delicious. Come with a large group and reservation in hand, and you might have a chance to dine in one of their upstairs dining rooms, which are far more sophisticated and formal.

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Brasserie L’Orleans is a quaint bistro overlooking one of the city’s green squares and commuters waiting for the tram. It was a gorgeous day and I chose to sit outside, the moment bringing forth the joy that being in France and loving it, brings. Here, I ventured into tasting something new: Stuwed Lumprey Bordelaise (eel-like fish cooked in its blood with red wine and dark chocolate). Ugly, but delicious!

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La Tupina is an experience. The kind that feels like walking into a French grandmother’s kitchen and having her serve you hearty dishes of some of the most traditional local dishes there are. Except that instead of a French grandma, the person in the kitchen is Chef Remi, who is also super charming and fun to hang with. When you come here, come hungry and ready to try everything. The whole journey starts from the moment you walk in. The view of the wood burning oven and meats and vegetables laid out on the counter, waiting to be prepared to order. It’s warm and cozy and French. If you go alone you are more likely to get the table right next to where chef is cooking and he is more than happy to chat you up and keep the food coming, so be ready.

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Where I Raised My Glass

I raised my glass in many places, I mean, this is Bordeaux after all. Some of the best wines I have ever enjoyed I had during this trip. From Saint Émilion to Bergerac to Bordeaux, I got my fill of wine and loved it. But a great place to start before you venture out in to the many wineries, chateaus, and vineyards, is at l’Ecole du Vin. It’s a perfect place to start because a wine class will quickly familiarize you with the various regions, the break up of the same, and what you can expect to taste at each one.

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The courses help break down the reasons why the varietals are the way they are, what you can expect, and where to best seek out your favorites. The classes are offered twice a day, one in English and another in French at a very reasonable price, and offer tastings throughout the course to bring what is being presented to life. This was an incredible class and so valuable in helping me understand what I was about to experience throughout my trip. I can say enough about it, other than don’t miss stopping if you can.

Since I returned from my time in Bordeaux, I haven’t stopped talking about it. It’s one of those trips that, when combined with a few other European visits I’ve been to this year, has made me wonder when I will have the courage to take the plunge and just move already.

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Almost everyone I spoke to there has done the big city thing: New York, London, Paris. But something always kept calling them back, until they finally did come back and not one person seemed to regret it. Sometimes it’s hard to really explain what it is that will make you enjoy being in a place. My being alone so much while there really helped me to connect with the city, sounds, and people because I had nothing else to distract me. Whether it was an early morning walk down the avenue or a stroll through the park on a rainy afternoon, each second seemed to change me a bit more. Of all the wonderful things that travel can do, this ability to affect so deeply is probably my favorite. This visit to Bordeaux and its neighboring areas was that for me and I so hope that when you go you can feel it as well. Preferably with a glass of wine in hand.

To see more photographs from the trip please visit the following links:

A Night in Bordeaux, France in Photography

The Storybook Experience that is Bergerac, France

A Walk Back in Time at  Saint Émilion

Touring Émilion (Flickr)

Disclosure: I was the blogger of choice by Atout France and their partners to share the Bordeaux wine experience with you. I traveled as their guest. All opinions are my own.

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Carol Cain

Brooklyn native Carol is happiest when on an adventure, whether close to home or farther away. She is a small business owner and travel writer. In addition to creating Girl Gone Travel, she is the Founder and Principal of Brave World Media, a social media marketing, communications, and branding agency. She's mom to three wonderful sons and wife to a handsome Irish/Scot. She lives, works, and plays in the beautiful Finger Lakes region of NY.

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9 Comments
  • dariela
    October 12, 2013

    I love the pictures Carol, thanks for sharing! I also like to visit places by myself and it did help to connect. This city looks so amazing and looks like you can discover a thousand things in just one day. And because I just love the pics I have to call my favorites: the table with the Park behind just waiting for you to sit on it and enjoy and the 2 fancy cups with a little of what what awaits outdoors. And one more! The closeup of the flower ornament on the building with the beautiful landscape far away, love!
    My recent post Chunky Peanut and Fruit Granola Recipe

    Reply
    • caincarol
      dariela
      October 12, 2013

      Thanks so much Dariela!

      Reply
  • annastockholm
    October 13, 2013

    This looks like a great trip. I will go to France for Eramsus and look forward to see more of beautiful Bordeaux…

    Reply
    • caincarol
      annastockholm
      October 14, 2013

      Yay! I think you will love your visit : )

      Reply
  • Mardi Michels
    October 14, 2013

    Absolutely stunning Carol. Thanks for the vicarious trip to Bordeaux this morning!
    My recent post Pierogi Pie

    Reply
    • caincarol
      Mardi Michels
      October 14, 2013

      Thank you! I'm so glad you enjoy it!

      Reply
  • Nancy Horn
    March 8, 2014

    Your photos are incredible. We are trying to plan a trip to Paris (sans kids) for our 10th anniversary. Maybe we should be considering a trip to Bordeaux.
    My recent post Sweet Prints & Soft Pima Cotton for Your Baby from Kissy Kissy’s 2014 Spring Collection

    Reply
    • caincarol
      Nancy Horn
      March 9, 2014

      @Nancy Horn: Thanks Nancy! I absolutely LOVED Bordeaux, and it\’s a short train ride away from the other places I visited such as Bergerac and Saint Emilion! I would highly recommend it as a romantic travel destination. : )

      Reply
  • Zayd
    December 1, 2016

    Your pictures are beautiful, thank you! I visited Bordeaux one time and by looking at your pictures, I litteraly felt like if I was visiting the city again.
    You can visit my blog about my the biggest cities in France and leave a comment:

    to the discovery of france.blogspot.com

    Reply

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Hi! I'm Carol! I am an award-winning travel blogger, a keynote speaker, and the Principal and owner of Brave World Media, a social media marketing, communications, and branding agency. I a wife to a handsome Irish/Scot and a mom to 3 sons and 2 puppies. Welcome to my blog where I share stories of my travels and professional public relations insights and advice. Thank you for reading and for your support!

Carol Cain

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If you are a foodie traveler, Madison, WI is a des If you are a foodie traveler, Madison, WI is a destination for you. This list of good eats were all within close proximity to each other and spots we made time for during our short weekend visit. So definitely note that this doesn’t even begin to cover the tip of the iceberg, but makes a good starter list!

📍@ShortStackEats in the heart of Downtown Madison is clearly a UW favorite. Loved their pancakes! We thought it was a pricey for breakfast, and only offered drip coffee, but the scene was fun, food was good, and service was friendly.
📍@SardineMadison is a waterfront French bistro that has stood the test of time (we’ve been coming here since we lived in Madison!). It can feel very corporate some nights, but their Happy Hour and brunch are definite highlights and it’s a really nice dining experience overall.
📍@EatattheAudrey impressed us! It’s not your usual “hotel restaurant” and I would say it easily stands alone as an eatery worth checking out in Madison. Great breakfast options, cozy vibes, nice bar, and good service!
📍@RamenStation1124 good, affordable ramen.
📍BlindShotSocialClub We really loved this spot for brunch (sorry, was enjoying the company and totally spaced out on capturing food images!). Golf fans will love hitting the putt here (you can reserve a private room too), and what I though was most cool was the delicious and wide selection of non-alcoholic cocktails to choose from. This place is a total vibe!
📍@StringsRamen is a chain, but I have to say it is some of the best ramen I have had in a long time. I especially loved how you can choose your ramen but heat level but also by Japanese region which allowed us to taste a couple of new flavors!
📍@Parthenongyros has been around awhile (hubby recalls coming here during his college years!) and was voted #1 take out in Madison! Though we indulged inside and away from the snow. A delicious, quick bite when strolling around State Street.

And again, this is just a starter list. There is so much more to eat and enjoy in this top foodie city! What other spots would you add to this list?

#madisonwi #foodiegram #foodiedestinations #goodeats @destinationmadison
I love to travel. It has always been important to I love to travel. It has always been important to my family. My parents got my first passport weeks after I was born. They couldn’t afford to travel like I do now, but they understood, as immigrants, the absolute privilege that comes attached to having that shiny blue American booklet and they wanted me to have it.

I was yet again reminded of my privilege when my travel back home on this last trip was delayed over 24 hours. I have a village in place to make sure my kids were ok. Having my own business meant I didn’t have to report in to anyone, and was still able to work remotely so none of my clients were inconvenienced by it. Though the airline covered our hotel and food, we never worried that we couldn’t do it ourselves otherwise. While we were annoyed, we weren’t stressed.

So while I love to travel, and I love sharing my travels with you, I acknowledge that being able to do so, and dealing with the consistent travel disruptions so prevalent today without worries is a privilege…one that started with a little blue booklet that gives me more access to the world than some others do.

And I want us all in this travel space to be reminded of this. Of how lucky we are. Of our privilege to access and time and money.

So let us travel with grace and awareness. Let us remain rooted in reality and perspective. Acknowledging that our escapism isn’t one so easily accessible to others. Understanding that this is also why local stories have as much value as those to exclusive destinations, if not more. And, never forgetting, especially in the travel influencer and media space, that were it not for hosted campaigns and paid-for travel opportunities, most of us wouldn’t be able to afford the lifestyle we so beautifully curate online.

It doesn’t matter how often you travel, or how far. Just that hopefully you will be able to gift yourself the experience of doing so and experiencing something new.

#travel #travelmedia #travelinfluencer #wheretonext
As I work on compiling all the good eats I experie As I work on compiling all the good eats I experienced in Madison, WI, I have to ask: what is your favorite meal of the day, and where did you experience a highlight of the same?

I am a huge fan of breakfast. This beauty was a blueberry pancake order from @shortstackeats. Pancakes are not a big thing for me, but these were pretty perfect. I am craving them still. 🥞♥️

#madisonwi #goodeats #travelingfoodie @destinationmadison
We got back on a plane! Here are scenes from a qui We got back on a plane! Here are scenes from a quick trip to Madison, WI - my first time back in 14 years! Though we were here for family matters, we did take a moment to explore a bit of what used to be a place we called home.

We couldn’t do anything else until we drove around Lake Monona, where we once had a home, and took in the wintery views (there is an epic 13.2-mile trail that loops around the lake that is worth exploring if you visit!). Though our time was limited, we were able to enjoy some of it along State Street exploring the shops, eateries, the FREE @mmocamadison, and the beautiful architecture of the WI State Capitol Building (the Dane County Farmers Market will soon pick up again - Saturdays, April 15 thru November 11, 2023 around the Capitol Building and it is one of the best farmers markets anywhere!). 

We booked a room at the @hiltonmadison Monona Terrace to be within walking distance of all the downtown fun (tip: for a room with a lake view make sure to book at the upper levels above 10th floor for an unobstructed view of Lake Monona). 

Madison, WI is a skip and a hop from the Finger Lakes so this short and sweet visit didn’t feel difficult at all. And we absolutely loved the winter scenery and seeing what has changed (a lot) since we lived here.

Stay tuned for my list of where we ate!

Have you ever been to Madison, WI?

#madisonwi #weekendgetaway #wisconsin @destinationmadison
The joy of that first sip of the day. #randommom The joy of that first sip of the day. 

#randommomentsarethebest
I think my husband enjoys it, but still can’t be I think my husband enjoys it, but still can’t believe how easily I’ve been waking up in the early mornings since our last trip. Not sure how to shake it, or if it’s temporary, but here it is: the rare sighting of me up and moving early in the day. Am I a morning person now? Has travel ever permanently changed any of your habits?

#morningperson #lifeinthecountry #newme <-😂

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